I have settled on 61 grains SR4759 with a dacron wad and hand lube with SPG. Put a three-leaf folding sight on it and off we went. mould, cut the barrel to half-round, made a set of dies, and bought some BELL brass. He even built his own rifling machine and cut the rifling to the old specs, convex on the bottom of the grooves. So, a friend who was a machinist for the railroad bored the barrel to. He was not impressed, so he sent a rolling block to England and had it turned into a. Then, a friend told me about John Grinnell's story about shooting grizzlies in what is now Glaciew park with a 45-70.
After I found that the rifling twist was too slow for anything heavier than 265 grains, I started mulling other possibilities.
7MM REMINGTON ROLLING BLOCK RIFLE FULL
444 Marlin kits on it replacing the barrel with a 30" full octagon and putting new wood on the critter. I bought it in the '60s and put one of Numrich Arms.
One of my Pride and Joy rifles started out as an old miltary 7mm. I have seen both this and scalping done on RB hammers for quite a weight savings but wonder about safety. I am wondering if it is safe to drill through the hammer above the pivot hole to take some of the mass and weight out of it. Pressure is applied via the spud and the breech face will be cut square with the hole. The action is assembled and the hammer dropped behind the breech block locking it in battery. It looks and works just like a bolt facing tool on a bolt action rifle. My plan is to make a threaded spud with a centered tightly slip fit cutting/lapping rod that will thread in from the front of the actio, back to the assembled breach face. I have not checked if or how much the face of the block is out with the action hole square but I'm quite certain it is. Also I think cutting in the side shoulders pretty much made it necessary to use a round barrel on this action. I think the main thing with action octagoning is to make sure the angles are cleanly cut at 45 degrees from a leveled and centered top flat. I'm learning as I go and also have a set of plans to help out.
7MM REMINGTON ROLLING BLOCK RIFLE FULL SIZE
I had planned on using a round barrel anyway so I guess it is a moot point and if one wanted to use a full size octagon barrel than flange lowering or removal would be in order I guess. If I cut it away to half the receiver ring diameter so it will flush with the top of the forearm height than it will not clear octagon points on a same size barrel. The thing I don't have figured out is how much of the flange on the action front to leave on for the forearm rear seat. I have it in the facing mandrel and it looks well centered and proportioned from the front. OPS, I think I'm good with either an under size octagon or round barrel on the flats milled into the receiver as the thickness of the ring from inside of the action hole to the middle of the flat is close to the same on all sides. For now I'm going to get the action already to build into a rifle and then squirl it away until decided on a chambering. I have recased two of them and they came out really nice. I still haven't made up my mind on a barrel or caliber. I have work on several for friends and am still learning all sorts of new stuff about them. I have always been mildly interested in RB's but never have owned one of my own before.
If I find this to be true I may forgo a set trigger. I've been told one can make a 2 pound clean breaking trigger without reducing the main spring weight appreciably. I will check the block face for square with the action hole and may have to make a spud to lap it true. I milled a Octagon profile in the action ring an added side wall shoulders and she's starting to look pretty trim. I found this out when borrowing a mandrel to square the action face from a friend that was way to small and had to fabricate a new one. It is 12 TPI square thread with a major diameter of 1.055 and minor of 1.000. As a matter of fact my normally very inclusive thread chart does not even carry the correct shank profile. Mine is a smokeless Remington and has a small diameter firing pin and large barrel shank. This is how I always get acquainted with a new gun type and can learn about them inside out. I'm working one over now and learning about them as I go.
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